Reply To: Warie Gill

Al
Keymaster
Post count: 860
#9756 |

Ok, just talking to myself now obviously 😉 had a good day out today. Found all the routes and I think what had confused me was that the most obvious lines weren’t the ones recorded! Anyway, I climbed three obvious unlisted routes. I have named and listed them as I’m sure they will have been climbed before (feel free to claim!). I also found Andy’s routes ‘200m to the south of the Warie Gill’. Pleased that they aren’t the same routes as Ross and Stu’s Blackpocket Wall from May, but they are just across the other side of the unclimbable arch geo from this, so actually give complete continuation of routes now from the South Gill right to the Warie Gill!

And note to self: when self-belaying it is useful to remember your shunt – left it at the top on the 2nd route so had to climb with a tibloc and backup knots! (fall on toothed tibloc on dynamic rope = not clever)

1 Jet (HS); 2 Bosse-Cat (HS); 3 Grot-ville (VD); 4 Wall of Sound (E1 5a); 5 Lost Volcano (VS 4b); 6 Orange Utang (HS); 7 Purple Haze (VS 4b); 8 Rock Lobster (VD).

3 ‘new’ routes were:

9. Nip Up Sev 4a 15m
Climb the shallow cracks to ledges, then the crack above.
Pete Sawford, Paul Whitworth. 2009

10. Warrior Groove Sev 4a *** 15m
Climb the excellent corner crack
Pete Sawford, Paul Whitworth. 2009

11. Shuntless VS 4b 15m
The short corner and crack above on the arête, finishing up the groove.
FA unknown. Al Whitworth (self belay) 31/08/2014