Bannaminn New Routes

Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
  • Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #4313 |

    As Andrew said added 2 new routes to Bannaminn last night. Really nice evening chilling out with a few routes, beer and a picnic watching the sun go down – very civilised!

    Both routes were on the seaward face to the South, in between Andy’s Severe which I’ve named Open Book as I didn’t have another name for it, and Pete’s VS, which I named Pack Horse. Feel free to suggest new names.

    Simmer Dim E2 5c * 20m
    Start at the foot of the crack line for Pack Horse. Climb diagonally left to a ledge and then direct up through the vague crack (crux) and roof, finishing up the slab above.
    Al Whitworth, Andrew Watt 24 May 2012

    A great route but very technical crux with suspect gear, and no gear below you. I rested on one such suspect micro to wiggle in another dodgy one, then downclimbed and went for the crux again so it wasn’t a completely clean ascent.

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #5542 |

    Back at Bannaminn last night, climbed Crackerjack (HVS) with Andy and he also climbed Packhorse, thinking it as more like HVS than VS.

    Anyway, point of the post is that Andy said that Pete Sawford has climbed Andrew’s suspected new route from May before. Its up the rib to the left of the 2 VS/HVS cracks on the seaward face, right of Andy’s Severe corner (Open Book).

    I think it went at HVS 4c or something – not too hard but very little decent gear. Pete, you want to name it? Or I’ll just make up something rubbish!

    longa
    Participant
    Post count: 472
    #5543 |

    Is there a name for the big flake/groove line (diff I think)? Pete’s route goes up the square-fronted rib left of this and right of Open Book.

    I thought Packhorse and Crackerjack were both terrific routes, the best I’ve done at BM. Similar in technical difficulty but Packhorse is more poorly protected, which is why I’m inclined to give it HVS. Both are slabs, so I don’t think the beer-belly factor is significant. On the other hand I seconded Crackerjack, so may have found it straightforward for that reason.

    Andrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #5545 |

    Back from holidays!

    Ah well, at least I won’t have to name that route now! 😛 HVS 4c is what I was going to give it too as there’s not really any gear.

    Sounds like a good evening anyway.

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #5549 |

    Don’t have a name for that route, no. Didn’t even know there was one there actually!

    longa
    Participant
    Post count: 472
    #5550 |

    Unless you’ve got things mixed up!. Going South from the bottom of the abseil that we used on Sunday:

    1. The steep undercut buttress with the E1 on it.
    2. A Scramble line up a groove.
    3. A severe which goes up the N. facing wall to the R.
    4. Round the corner is a big bay with an obvious groove up the back which I take to be Open Book, severe.
    5. The front of the right-bounding rib of this is the route referred to above, which Andrew claimed but Pete had already done.
    6. Immediately right of this is a scramble into a bay below the overhanging wall of your new E2. An easy but pleasant line slants up to the left along the edge of a big flake.
    7. Your E2
    8. On the slab to the right, the left-hand crack (Packhorse)
    9. The right-hand crack (Crackerjack)
    10. The unclimbed groove overhanging the sea beyond the end of the ledge.

    Andrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #5551 |

    That’s how I understand it Andy.

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #5552 |

    Yup spot on. Think I just missed the first Severe off my list.

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