Blovid

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  • AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #9407 |

    I spotted this place when out kayaking the other week. It has some super short routes on excellent sandstone on the East Wall and there are few more lines to go.

    The South West Corner is disappointing as it looks great, but the sandstone is a bit soft. There is still a well protected line to the left of the corner that has now see three people back off the crux!

    *******

    Blovid

    Grid Ref: HU 415 197
    Approach: 10 mins
    Rock Type: Sandstone
    Tidal: No
    Aspect: South West and East

    Description

    There are two quite contrasting walls. The 10m East Wall provides a steep wall of generally good rock, although protection can be spaced on the harder routes. The steepest section is under cut along the whole length. The 15m South West Corner looks great, however the rock is slightly softer here and protection can be less reliable.

    Access

    Park opposite the second to last property at the end of the road at Southpunds (HU 409 197). Walk south through the gate. Cross the style at the bottom of the field and head to the coast cutting south of the Loch of Levenwick.

    Routes

    South West Corner Area

    The corner holds a fine looking line that is steeper than it initially looks. Unfortunately the rock is slightly soft in places making protection a serious issue. Access by an easy scramble to the left.

    Another Day At The Office 15m E1 5b
    Climb the corner past a hidden and abandoned nest and up the hanging corner above to a committing top out with poor gear.
    Ross I Jones, Matt Dent. 23 Jun 2014.

    East Wall

    The steep wall rises up from left to right above a large ledge and terminates on the right in a left facing corner. Access by abseil.

    Flake n Break 10m E2 5b *
    Pull on to the wall using a small right rising crack. Climb up on small flakes and breaks trending slightly left to a vague niche higher up and direct to finish.
    Mark Kauntze, Ross I Jones. 30 Jun 2014.

    Five Finger Exercise 10m E2 5c *
    Pull on the wall at a very small niche about 1m up. Climb up through breaks and right to pull up into the niche below the broken block at the top of the crag and then climb the wall above direct to finish.
    Mark Kauntze, Ross I Jones. 30 Jun 2014.

    Ferryman Waits For No One 10m E2 5c *
    Start 2m left of Switch right of the niche. Climb small flakes/breaks to a thin horizontal break and gear at 4m. Climb up and leftwards to pull in to the niche above. Climb up on the right to finish left of the boulder.
    Ross I Jones, Matt Dent 23 Jun 2014.

    Switch 8m VS 4c
    The hanging large crack just left of the hanging bulge where the crag drops back.
    Matt Dent, Ross I Jones. 23 Jun 2014.

    Have You Seen Me Dancing 10m VS 4c 10m
    The left facing corner and crack on the right end of the crag.
    Matt Dent, Ross I Jones. 23 Jun 2014.

    AvatarAl
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #9408 |

    10m routes. Are you feeling ok? 😉

    Sounds good. More crags in the south please. You can leave the north stuff…

    AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #9409 |

    Well needs must ….. 😉

    AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #9416 |

    Both routes Ferryman Waits For No One and Five Finger Exercise may well be 5b rather than 5c. We weren’t that sure as it depends on the sequence.

    AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #11389 |

    Two more lines added last Monday and the VS called Switch repeated by Andy.

    Reach 10m E2 5c
    Climb a small crack 3m right of the corner (of Have You Seen Me Dancing) to the left end of a ledge. Straight up to the next horizontal break and then thin flakes trending left then right to finish on a larger break and wall above.
    Ross I Jones (Unseconded). 20 Apr 2015.

    Breakout 8m E1 5b
    Start at the corner and climb up into a hanging corner. Breakout right to easier ground and up to finish.
    Ross I Jones, Andy Long. 20 Apr 2015.

    AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #11600 |

    Mike and I climbed at Blovid today and found a few suprises. Mike led a nice E2 5c up the end of the wall left of Break and Flake. I added another E1 to the left of this on a smaller wall. We then climbed either side if the arch on the south facing wall adding another 2 good E1s on the wall and groove to the right before finishing up with a cracking ascent up the left side of the arch and hanging roof at E2 5b.

    We had a look at Fogla Taing. Every route is currently wet. So it will still be a while until it dries out.

    AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #11625 |

    We had another good day here yesterday (Tuesday) adding another 10 lines, although 6 were solos at either Diff or V Diff. I’ll write these up soon.

    AndrewAndrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #11626 |

    Good day for it yesterday. Wetaher’s certainly taken a turn for the worse today!

    AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #11627 |

    Aye. It looked pretty grey in the hills but Blovid stayed dry despite threatening clouds on the horizon.

    Sorry about the change in the weather. Seems to coincide with me heading off isle …..

    AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #11746 |

    Updated crag description and routes for Blovid:

    Grid Reference: HU 415197
    Approach: 10-15 Minutes
    Rock Type: Sandstone
    Tidal: No
    Aspect: Various

    Description

    The crag is just north of a ruined broch and Helm’s Geo, a narrow geo that cuts in the cliff. It provides varied climbing in five areas. The 15m South West Corner looks great, however the rock is slightly softer here and protection is less reliable. The Northern Slab provides low grade 6-8m routes. The Point has three 6m routes. The South Wall provides 10-12m mid-grade routes either side of the arch that are more strenuous than they look. The 10m East Wall provides a steep wall of generally good rock, although protection can be spaced on the harder routes. The steepest section is undercut along the whole length.

    Access

    Park opposite the second to last property at the end of the road at Southpunds (HU 409197). Walk south through the gate. Cross the stile at the bottom of the field and head to the coast cutting south of the Loch of Levenwick. In wetter conditions detour further south to avoid the wetter more direct approach.

    Routes

    SOUTH WEST CORNER AREA

    The corner holds a fine looking line that is steeper than it initially looks. Unfortunately the rock is slightly soft in places making protection a serious issue. Access by an easy scramble to the left.

    Another Day At The Office 15m E1 5b
    Climb the corner past a hidden and abandoned nest and up the hanging corner above to a committing top out with poor gear.
    Ross I Jones, Matt Dent. 23 Jun 2014.

    NORTHERN SLAB

    The slab is accessed by crossing over the arch and scrambling down the north side of the wall. The situation is well presented and routes have good protection.

    Silouettes 10m V Diff
    The arete on the left side of the wall.
    Mike Soldner (solo). 9 Jun 2015.

    No Time Like This Time 10m V Diff
    The wall immediately right of the arete.
    Ross I Jones (solo). 9 Jun 2015.

    Pleasure Walk 10m Diff *
    The well-defined crack up the wall.
    Mike Soldner (solo). 9 Jun 2015.

    Chance Encounter 8m HVS 4c *
    The centre of the wall between the two routes.
    Ross I Jones, Mike Soldner. 9 Jun 2015.

    Passing Comment 8m Diff
    Climbs twin cracks.
    Ross I Jones (solo). 9 Jun 2015.

    Afterthought 6m Diff
    The short crack on the right of the wall.
    Mike Soldner (solo). 9 Jun 2015.


    THE POINT

    A small alcove can be found hidden away at the most easterly point from the arch. The first route climbs the small corner on the west facing wall. The other two lines the east facing wall opposite.

    Not a Solo 6m HVS 5a *
    The small steep corner on the west facing wall.
    Mike Soldner, Ross I Jones. 9 Jun 2015.

    Goudie’s Search 6m Diff
    The left slanting crack/arete and the right slanting crack above on the left side of the west facing wall.
    Ross I Jones (solo). 9 Jun 2015.

    Pause for Effect 6m Diff
    The less well defined crack on the right of the wall.
    Mike Soldner (solo). 9 Jun 2015.

    SOUTH WALL

    The wall contains a striking arch on the left side and can be easily seen from the cliff to the south. It is accessed by crossing over the arch and scrambling down the north side of the wall and either doubling back and through the arch or scrambling across to the Northern Slab and scrambling up and over the wall to the right. Routes on the left (west) side of the arch are accessed by jumping across a narrow rift.

    A Tale of Two Shags 12m E2 5b *
    Start from a tidal ledge and climb up to an overhang. Pull through this and leftwards under another overhang with difficulty. Then up before finishing up the right slanting groove.
    Mike Soldner, Ross I Jones. 9 Jun 2015.

    Slap, Jam and Burn 15m E2 5b **
    Start below the left edge of the arch. Pull up rightwards onto a ledge on the arete and make an awkward move up leftwards onto a small ledge. Climb the hanging wall to exit rightwards to finish.
    Mike Soldner, Ross I Jones. 1 Jun 2015.

    The next two routes are on the wall 5m right of the arch.

    Sunshine at Last 12m E1 5b *
    The crack up the wall.
    Mike Soldner, Ross I Jones. 1 Jun 2015.

    Sunny Disposition 14m E1 5a *
    Pull up (crux) into a left trending corner groove and climb this to the top.
    Ross I Jones, Mike Soldner. 1 Jun 2015.

    EAST WALL

    The next 50m of the east facing wall to the left of the arch has been traversed by scrambling down from above. To the left of this a steep wall that rises up from left to right above a large ledge and terminates on the right in a left facing corner. Access is by abseil. At the far end of the wall is smaller wall set back. The first route is here.

    Gentle Introduction 8m E1 5b
    Start 5m left of the left facing corner. Climb up to an overhang and pull up onto the crack above from the left. Climb the steep wall above to finish.
    Ross I Jones, Mike Soldner. 1 Jun 2015.

    Emergency Exit Right 8m E2 5c
    Start 4m left of the left facing corner. Climb up through the inital overlap and up the right slanting crack. Avoid the capping overlap by stepping right to a ledge before stepping back left to finish above the overlap.
    Mike Soldner, Ross I Jones. 1 Jun 2015.

    Blovid Seals 12m E2 5c *
    From the left end of the main wall make a hard pull up onto the wall. Climb this past a ledge on the left and continue on small holds just right of the arete to move out left wards onto the edge of the arete higher up.
    Mike Soldner, Ross I Jones. 1 Jun 2015.

    Flake n Break 10m E2 5b *
    Pull on to the wall using a small right rising crack. Climb up on small flakes and breaks trending slightly left to a vague niche higher up and direct to finish.
    Mark Kauntze, Ross I Jones. 30 Jun 2014.

    Five Finger Exercise 10m E2 5c *
    Pull on the wall at a very small niche about 1m up. Climb up through breaks and right to pull up into the niche below the broken block at the top of the crag and then climb the wall above direct to finish.
    Mark Kauntze, Ross I Jones. 30 Jun 2014.

    Ferryman Waits For No One 10m E2 5c *
    Start 2m left of Switch right of the niche. Climb small flakes/breaks to a thin horizontal break and gear at 4m. Climb up and leftwards to pull in to the niche above. Climb up on the right to finish left of the boulder.
    Ross I Jones, Matt Dent. 23 Jun 2014.

    Switch 8m VS 4c
    The hanging large crack just left of the hanging bulge where the crag drops back.
    Matt Dent, Ross I Jones. 23 Jun 2014.

    Reach 10m E2 5c
    Climb a small crack 3m right of the corner to the left end of a ledge. Straight up to the next horizontal break and then thin flakes trending left then right to finish on a larger break and wall above.
    Ross I Jones (Unseconded). 20 Apr 2015.

    Have You Seen Me Dancing 10m VS 4c
    The left facing corner and crack on the right end of the main wall.
    Matt Dent, Ross I Jones. 23 Jun 2014.

    Breakout 8m E1 5b
    Start at the corner and climb up into a hanging corner. Breakout right to easier ground and up to finish.
    Ross I Jones, Andy Long. 20 Apr 2015.

    AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #12074 |

    Andrew and I added a couple more routes on the East Wall on Thursday and I soloed another eleven routes on a ten metre wall further south. So Blovid now has 37 lines and a few gnarly numbers still to go 😉

    EAST WALL

    Unnamed 8m HVS 5a
    An eliminate. Start 2m right of Emergency Exit. Climb broken right slanting cracks to the left of a niche to join the route above to make the same finish.
    Andrew Hunter, Ross I Jones. 13 Aug 2015.

    The Antiquarian 8m E1 5b
    Climb the groove to the right of Switch to pull through the roof and rightwards to finish.
    Ross I Jones, Andrew Hunter. 13 Aug 2015.

    BLOVID SOUTH

    The wall is 150m south of the broch (HU 416195). Routes are recorded from left to right. Access is gain from the right by down climbing the large left facing corner (Easy), the bottom section of the last route and traversing into the routes.
    All routes were climbed solo by Ross I Jones on 13 Aug 2015.

    1 Sailing By 10m Diff *
    The fine left right slanting crack to the left of the pale streak.

    2 The Shipping Forecast 10m Sev *
    Climb the wall just right of the pale streak and to the left of a small right facing corner at half height.

    3 Attention All Shipping 10m Diff
    Climb broken cracks and small right facing corner above.

    4 The Nightly Litany 10m Sev
    Start 2m right of the last route and climb up a small series of cracks that start a third of the way up.

    5 Penumbra of a Landlocked Existence 10m HS 4a *
    Start 2m right and climb carefully to a small niche at a third height and cracks above to finish.

    6 The Beaufort Scale 10m HS 4a *
    Start 2m right and climb up to vertical crack at a third height and continue upwards to the left of the right facing niche/corner at two-thirds height.

    7 Essential Listening 10m Diff
    Climb cracks and the niche at two thirds height to finish.

    8 North Atlantic Flux 10m Sev
    Climb the wall 2m right of the previous route to finish up the vertical crack at two-thirds height.

    9 Storm Warning 10m V Diff
    Start 5m left of the descent corner. Climb direct to a niche in a break at two-thirds height and up this to finish.

    10 FitzRoy 10m V Diff
    Start 3m left of the descent corner. Climb vertical cracks at a third height and continue direct to finish.

    11 Light Air Imminent 10m Diff
    Climb the corner and wall above to finish.

    I’ve renamed the South Wall, Arch South Wall

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