Changing the Routes

Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 24 total)
  • Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #4359 |

    So I’ve taken the liberty of booking this after we discussed it last night. If people can’t make the dates let me know asap so I can postpone it to the following week or another time.

    Friday 21st Sept. 5-8pm. Strip all routes and clean holds.
    Saturday 22nd. 10-6. Set Routes.

    As always, any help is appreciated – you don’t need to be able to set routes, just help out by belaying or bring sandwiches and you’ll be even more popular. Probably won’t manage all routes but should get most done, and can add others another time if needed.

    Fat Git
    Participant
    Post count: 342
    #5570 |

    I’ll be away south I’m afraid, but please don’t change the green route on the first panel – not until I climb the b*****d anyhow.

    longa
    Participant
    Post count: 472
    #5571 |

    I’ll also be away sooth, from 15th to 29th Sept. I’ll also second Jonathan’s request about the Evil Green.

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #5572 |

    Hmm, not a great start. Postpone it until 6/7 October then? Or it is free this weekend (7/8) if that suits? Just thought that was too short notice – tis fine for me though.

    Andrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #5573 |

    This weekend is fine by me.

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #5574 |

    OK, just spoken to Andy and he’s free this weekend and Nathalie is free for some of it so I’ve gone ahead with that.

    Friday 7th. 6-9pm
    Saturday 8th. 10-6.

    Bring cordless drills, unnecessary ascenders, rigging and shiny gear, ropes, sweets, buckets/haul bags and brushes. I’ll supply motivational music šŸ˜‰

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #5575 |

    Oh and the drill bit you need is a 6mm hex bit / allen key. Andy, can we use your dishwasher on Friday?! Otherwise we’ll need to handwash them at the Click.

    Andrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #5576 |

    10-6!? Pfft, what happened to the old days of 10-11(p.m.!). Make sure you get the music sorted! šŸ˜‰

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #5577 |

    Andy can come, so can Aurore for most of it. Pete will be there evenings. Should be enough time to set most routes, after 6 hrs you’re knackered anyway and always set crap routes at the end.

    Andrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #5578 |

    Ah, you’re just getting soft! šŸ˜‰

    Some would say that with your routes it’s hard to tell the difference! šŸ˜›

    longa
    Participant
    Post count: 472
    #5579 |

    Yes, can use our dishwasher.

    longa
    Participant
    Post count: 472
    #5587 |

    Actually, there are three routes that I’d like left, the green on panel one already referred to, the blue on panel two because I’ve just modified it and the grey on the overhang because I’ve only just built it. People should be free to modify them though.

    longa
    Participant
    Post count: 472
    #5588 |

    Also, the last two being easy they won’t be of any interest to you lot anyway.

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #5589 |

    That’s fine, 2 less to do and still should give plenty of holds to work with. If they need tweaking it can be done Friday night. As with last times we’ve changed most routes, I think we need to aim to have at least one of the following on each panel (incl. features):

    3c-4b, 4c-5b, 5c-6b, 6c-7a. French grades. The green on P1 being about 6a, Andy’s blue being 3c? We should try to grade the routes again so that folk can see a progression over weeks. May not have time to do it Saturday though.

    If you’re planning on doing some setting I recommend reading up a bit. None of us are particularly good at it and its too easy to set a bad route.

    One interesting rule I liked is that if you’re 5’11″+ you should make it so the next hold is no further than your elbow away when you go for it. Or mid-forearm if you’re slightly shorter. Similarly knee height is a max step up for easy routes.

    Other one was that general consensus is that it’s better to plan a route on the ground, set it, then tweak it all in one go rather than setting/tweaking hold by hold. Not how I’ve done it in the past but will try it…

    http://routecrafting.blogspot.co.uk/
    http://www.niceclimbing.com/use.php
    http://www.franklinhandholds.com/tag/routesetting/
    http://www.selfcoachedclimber.com/2010/04/tape-sequences-the-art-of-route-setting/

    Andrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #5590 |

    Keeping the green is good. It seems to be one that people are always aspiring to, although it’s been there at least 2 years! Not sure about your grey Andy, purely because the grey holds lend themselves very well to harder routes; but maybe if some are needed by someone they can be swapped out for others.

    It would be good if we could end up with some imaginative and ‘interesting’ easy – mid grade routes; everyone enjoys those. It’s probably also worth swapping panels so all the routes on a panel don’t climb the same.

    If we run out of time I’d be up for booking another night (or several) through the week to finish off/tweak. It would be worth putting extra time and effort into getting a really good spread of grades and quality, they’ll probably be there for a year after all!

    longa
    Participant
    Post count: 472
    #5591 |

    Yes, OK about the grey, I’m not going to make a song and dance about it!

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #5592 |

    Nice one all, the wall now resembles a work of art… Around 30 routes I think, way more than before! I think the amount of holds is going to confuse folk for a while, but you’ll get used to the routes. I’ll come down on Monday and start to grade them.

    There are plenty of challenging routes this time for regular climbers, and a few that I’m not sure will be possible for anyone up here – we’ll see.

    We’ll book another evening this week or soon anyway to add 2 more “purple swirls” routes to finish it off.

    Andrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #5593 |

    “a few that I’m not sure will be possible for anyone up here” I hope so!! Didn’t realise anyone had set any THAT hard; my attempt failed! šŸ˜›

    Good day on Saturday, most productive route-setting session we’ve had I think. There’ll probably be some tweaks needed on Mon and there’s still 2 routes to set but not bad for one day!

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #5594 |

    Yep, the purple swirls on the overhang and the salmons on the arete (similar style to green arete on other side)

    Andrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #5595 |

    Excellent! =D

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