Fethaland – Storm Wall

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  • Ross
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #9313 |

    Matt and I headed up to Fethaland after a couple of routes at Eshaness Lighthouse on Saturday and climbed a second route at a wall just South of the old haaf station. There is very little else there to climb. The two routes now recorded are quite contrasting with an enjoyable well-protected E1 and an alarmingly exposed and committing E3. I still have a vivid picture of Matt high up the wall above the crux shaking his head and shrugging his shoulders once he had established that there were no gear placements available and little chance of reversing the sequence. Oh the joys of the on-sight!

    Fethaland – Storm Wall

    Grid Ref: HU372943
    Approach: 45 mins
    Rock Type: Garnet Mica Schist
    Tidal: Swell Affected!!!
    Aspect: North North East


    Description

    This wall of clean black storm washed mica schist appears to be the only decent rock on Fethaland. It is best climbed on an evening during the ‘simmer dim’ months of June and July. The sun only catches the wall at 8:15pm on mid-summer’s day.


    Access

    Park at the end of the A970 just south of the farm buildings for the croft at Isbister (HU371908). Follow the track through the farm and North. Before the track drops the last 100m to the buildings of the ruined fishing station head up and left to the crag which is 200m South East of Buska Stack. Access is by abseil.

    Routes

    Northern Exposure
    25m E3 5b
    Belay in a cave part way up the wall. The rock is good but weathered black and smooth smooth. From 4m it is not possible to adequately protect yourself until the ledge at 10m! From the belay climb rightwards up sloping ledges to a small steep left slanting groove at 4m. Pull out rightwards and then up through the steep bulge and then leftwards to pull on to the safety of the sloping ledge. Climb the steep and slightly rotten corner flake to the top (A belay was taken at the bottom of the corner on the first ascent).
    Matt Dent, Ross I Jones. 21 Jun 2014.

    Sixareen 35m E1 5b **
    Belay from sea level ledges or a niche at 4m below a hanging right-facing corner crack in the centre of the wall. Climb up to and pull through the tricky hanging corner crack to easier ground. Climb the steep narrow corner crack above (crux) and finish either boldly up the wall above or slighty right and up the crack that ascends the wall to the right to finish.
    Ross I Jones, Clare Jones. 3 May 2014.

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