Fidlar Geo

Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)
  • AvatarAl
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #11648 |

    What a great day at Fidlar yesterday! 9 people led routes at some point – surely a record for us! It’s got to be the perfect crag for practising gear placements (and testing them eh Kevin?!)

    We added a few new routes to the crag, mainly when searching out the hardest possible lines! We then led each others routes to confirm the grades.

    A few adjustments too for the existing routes – The VS Peerie Maa seems illusive, but I guess it just finds a blanker line but we couldn’t work it out. Aurore climbed a different start to Noo an Sae – same grade and so really worth listing separately, and All Flaked Up is probably more like Severe than Vdiff. And finally Shalder is no more than Hard Severe, not VS.

    New routes (numbered on topo below). Both VS’s are high in the grade:

    5 Eying Up Nothing VS 4c 25m *
    Climb up the first blank slab on excellent crimps to the diagonal break, then the slab above to a mantle shelf, then the final slab right up the middle (crux). Superb climbing and only just enough gear but escapable at any point!
    Al, Aurore Whitworth. 13/06/2015

    8 Stepover Severe 25m
    Climb up through the overlaps direct and then step out right to pull onto the hanging block, and finish up the easy wall above.
    Al Whitworth, Andrew Hunter. 13/06/2015

    10 Andrew’s Route VS 4b 25m
    Climb the clean slabs left of All Flaked Up direct up the centre. Climb through the first overlap and then make a bold move up and onto the hanging nose above to finally reach good holds and gear!
    Andrew Hunter, Nathalie Pion, Christine Rolin. 13/06/2015

    Attachments:
    You must be logged in to view attached files.
    AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #11652 |

    Sounds like you enjoyed yourselves. You’ve certainly squeezed the routes in. It’ll soon be vying for the most climbed bit of rock in Shetland after the Grind.

    Yes Peerie Maa just goes for the nicest bit of bold slab climbing. I think I initially graded All Flaked Up as Severe then down graded it when I soloed it. Your probably right with Shalder. It was climbed on a cold day in April!!

    Avatarlonga
    Participant
    Post count: 472
    #11655 |

    What what what? Did Kevin take a leader-lob after I’d gone?

    AvatarAl
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #11656 |

    Yup. We missed it too. He was climbing All Flaked Up but making it harder by climbing the slab I think. Placing gear at the time so sounded like a good lob, well held by Nathalie! So there’s now a well-bedded in-situ nut on that route…

    Avatarlonga
    Participant
    Post count: 472
    #11657 |

    His first leader-lob! Brings tears of nostalgia to the eyes.

    AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #11658 |

    At least Kevin will have had cams and rocks to place Andy. I imagine that your first leader lob was onto tied knots and slings and held with a waist belay. That would bring tears to my eyes 😉

    Avatarlonga
    Participant
    Post count: 472
    #11660 |

    I think my first lob was off Cemetery Gates, only about half a metre but held when one of the slings round my neck caught on a tiny spike. The second one was a big one off Vector, held by one of Joe Brown’s original pegs. The rope was tied directly round my waist. I’ve actually held bigger falls than taken, and still got the scars.

    Avatarlonga
    Participant
    Post count: 472
    #11661 |

    We didn’t use jammed-knot runners. Slings and pegs mostly, though alloy nuts on nylon slings were well established in the late 60’s and wired nuts just appearing.

    You could often tell when you were at the crux of a route because there’d be a peg left in place on the first ascent.

    AndrewAndrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #11665 |

    Very confused by Peerie Maa! I didn’t look at the guide when we were there but went to that end of the wall and climbed the blankest, hardest-looking section of wall which, disappointingly, turned out to be Severe at the most. That looks to be the line of Peerie Maa on the topo, but definitely not VS.

    AvatarFat Git
    Participant
    Post count: 342
    #11669 |

    I’ve heard that occasionally it was a finger rather than a peg that got left behind Andy

    AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #11673 |

    “Very confused by Peerie Maa! I didn’t look at the guide when we were there but went to that end of the wall and climbed the blankest, hardest-looking section of wall which, disappointingly, turned out to be Severe at the most. That looks to be the line of Peerie Maa on the topo, but definitely not VS.”

    Oh no the truth is out. I’ve claimed a line that I clearly didn’t climb. Its time to go and check all of those other lines I’ve put my name to 😮

    From what I remember it was pretty easy climbing up to the smoothest section of the slab which you can climb either side at a much easier grade. I just took the mist interesting bit in the middle and enjoyed the moves. If it isn’t obvious, which it appears that it isn’t, then give it Severe or whatever you think.

    Picture attached of the view the day we climb it. It was getting quite dramatic that afternoon.

    Attachments:
    You must be logged in to view attached files.
    AvatarFat Git
    Participant
    Post count: 342
    #11675 |

    Pistols at dawn then gentlemen? (or might I lob you another hand grenade?)

    AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #11677 |

    I’m not quite sure what Andrew will two with a couple of pistols then or a hand grenade Jonathan? You might just find yourself in the firing line….. I’ve handed all responsibility for grading of this route to the consensus and taken flight like every other Common Gull 😉

    AndrewAndrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #11691 |

    Hahaha! I’ve long suspected as much, Ross—I just didn’t think I’d finally catch you at it on a VS up the Fidlar slabs! Just wait until I get on your “E3” at Muckle Roe! 😛

    I’m sure there must be an extremely narrow strip of VS lurking there somewhere, I just didn’t find it and can’t for the life of me figure out where it could be, I was feeling generous when I said Severe. Is a map mandatory for the route? 😉

    AvatarAl
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #11695 |

    Some of Aurore’s photos now up on the site. Please feel free to add any you have 🙂

    http://www.climbshetland.co.uk/photos/fidlar-geo-trip-june-2015/

    AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #11706 |

    didn’t think I’d finally catch you Andrew what have you been thinking!

    If you remember Tony’s original descriptions of routes on the other wall were rather lengthy so we shortened them. Clearly my brief summary hasn’t been enough to describe the exact sequence on the route. What an opportunity lies ahead ….. the chance to put up new sequences all over Shetland ….. 😉

    Hang on a minute I’m rambling. Better stop now.

Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.