Grind New Route

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  • Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #4310 |

    Added a new line today at the Grind. I actually went to do the big arete, but the swell was too big (surprisingly) and also underestimated the height and took the wrong ropes!! Next time!

    This new route was a project of mine back in 2007 so I had practiced it then but never been bold enough to lead it! I abbed down today to check the gear but ignored looking at the moves again… It’s the vague crack line to the left of Kyrje. Although definitely bolder and more technical than Kyrje, its not quite a grade harder. The gear is very fiddly and mostly micros but I reckon some of it would hold!

    Turning Tide E2 5c * 20m
    Climb the vague crack on small holds. High in the grade.
    Al Whitworth, Andrew Hunter 22nd May 2012

    Thanks for the belay Andrew!

    Andrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #5263 |

    Brilliant route! Was a VERY good lead by Al. Lovely evening to be out as well! 🙂

    longa
    Participant
    Post count: 472
    #5264 |

    Well done! I can’t off the top of my head recall what’s left of Kyrje, so it must have been very vague.

    We ended up going to Pundsar (N-of-S out of the sun). Stu had a go at leading the steep “crossed cracks” wall on sight and took a splendid flyer. I’d always supposed that if you came off that crux you’d deck it but I managed to take in enough slack as I watched him gibber to stop him in time. That plus the fact that he caught his foot in the rope and turned upside down…

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #5265 |

    Nice one Stu – sounds fun! I’m glad I didn’t do that on my route! Good effort for getting on it though, its a stiff route. No coastguard rescue this time then Andy? You’ve got to stop trying to kill off climbers on that route!

    Here’s the line Andy. Yes it is very vague! http://dl.dropbox.com/u/6079735/Turning%20Tide.jpg

    Andrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #5266 |

    To be honest, once you’re standing under it the crack line is fairly obvious. It’s not one of those ‘filling a gap’ routes anyway.

    Well done Stuart for getting on that! 🙂 Inverting is a bad one… hope he didn’t hit his head! :S

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #5267 |

    Yeah its definitely “a line” but there’s not much to go at on first appearance.

    Have to say I’ve managed to avoid inverting so far. But seen it happen so keeping the rope right is always on my mind on lead.

    I just had a look on UKC at Pundsar and there’s a photo of Andy belaying me up that route in 2005. I don’t look very comfortable on it! Think we were just larking about, no one led it. The routes not listed though so maybe someone could add it, and any others that are recorded there.

    rockhopper
    Participant
    Post count: 78
    #5275 |

    No damnage to report. I did it on top rope after and found the hold I missed! I’ll get it next time.
    As Pete very kindly pointed out I “Blew the onsight then!”.

    I’d recommend Andy as a belayer.

    Andrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #5276 |

    Haha, he’s an encouraging sort of fellow, Pete!!

    Glad you didn’t hit your head anyway.

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