Lang Head/Stivva (Mangasta)

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  • Ross
    Post count: 165
    #4464 |

    I was out with Paul on Tuesday south of Lang Head (HU303704) where we climbed 5 20m-35m new lines from VD to HVS. A great day out weather-wise but the lines were nothing that great. There isn’t much left to go in terms of new lines. Mick Tighe climbed here back in 2008 and the line Paul climbed with Jake recently (Central Reservation) had already been climbed by Mick and is called Come What May. Frustratingly we found a fair bit of loose rock on the fantastic looking gnarly corner. So after knocking some of it off we abandoned the attempt on the ab in! I’ll write the routes up soon and add them to the data base.

    Post count: 165
    #9252 |

    Stivva Wall
    HU304703 South-West Facing

    The wall is opposite the stack and south of a small sea cave. It has three fine looking corner grooves in the lower sections. Unfortunately the first two south of the cave deteriorate in the upper section and have not been climbed. The third line has been climbed. Abseil from anchors set well back down a wall and corner system just south of a large vegetated groove and just north of a small arch to a ledge 5m above the sea.

    Bailey’s No Spring Chicken
    40m E2 5c **
    1. 15m 5c From a small ledge 5m above the sea climb up a steep crack in the wall and pull through into the corner system above. Climb this to a stance.
    2. 25m 5b Climb the corner above stepping out right to climb the smaller corner system (line of abseil) at the top (Stepping left takes you into the vegetated groove climbed on the first ascent!).
    Ross I Jones, Al Sanders. 1 Jun 2014.

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