Muckle Roe – Dandi Geo

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  • Ross
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #9291 |

    Clare and I were out at a new crag on Friday on the West side of Muckle Roe and climbed two very contrasting routes. The first a HVS which was a little flaky at the top and pretty average; the second a spectacular hanging corner groove to the left at E2. There isn’t much else to go there, however the E2 provides some of the best climbing I’ve done in a long time on perfect granite. Much harder than The Spoot and different in that the 5c crux is in the first 6m, however the upper section is still 5b. It would be good to get a second ascent sometime, I’ll be happy to hold someone’s ropes.

    DANDI GEO
    Tidal, South West facing.

    To the North of Dandi Geo at HU296645 is a wall bounded by slots on either side. The right slot contains an igneous intrusion at the back of it. There are two routes of contrasting quality from average slightly friable granite to a superb perfect undercut corner groove. Access is by an easy scramble down to slabs above the climbs and then abseil to a slanting tidal platform.

    148 Beats Per Minute E2 5c ** 25m
    Climb the hanging crackline (crux) beneath a perfect corner groove on the left side of the wall to a ledge at 6m. Pull left into the corner and climb this to the top.
    Ross I Jones (Unseconded). 13 Jun 2014.

    Transition HVS 5a 25m
    Start on the right side of the wall and climb cracks to the right of a short corner and cracks above for 3m. Traverse left to the central crack and climb this direct to a finish (The top section of friable rock can be avoided by traversing further left to finish).
    Ross I Jones, Clare Jones. 13 Jun 2014.

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