Muckle Roe – North West

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  • AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #9321 |

    I have pulled together a summary of the routes to date for the NW area of Muckle Roe.

    I’ve written in what I can remember people telling me about the routes I haven’t climbed. Please feel free to correct grades, names and descriptions. Thanks.

    ******

    MUCKLE ROE – NORTH WEST

    Description

    The red granite cliffs to the North West of Muckle Roe mainly consist of poor rock, however there are some areas of good rock that have been climbed amongst some pretty crumbly sections. These areas are well worth a visit in a beautiful and remote area.

    Access

    From Brae follow the A970 west for 1 km and turn left onto the road for Muckle Roe. Follow this south almost to the end and take a track on the right 100m west of Narwood at HU 3261 6310. The track splits after 1km (this short connecting section of track is not shown on the latest OS map). Take the left fork and park at HU304654.

    North Ham
    HU301 661 East Facing Non-tidal

    The small spit of land immediately west of Fiska Ness has an obvious stepped corner on the northerly tip on the east face.

    Ham Corner VDiff 25m
    The stepped corner on the east face.
    Pete Sawford, Julie Maguire, Stu Barton. 7 Jun 2014.

    West Ham, Mutiny Wall
    HU 299 660 North Facing Partly Tidal

    The wall is opposite West Ham Stack. Access is by abseil.

    Mutiny Crack 35m E3 5c **
    Climb a series of hanging ledges and horizontal breaks to a roof below a hanging crack. Pull through the roof and climb the crack. Hand jam up the large leftwards rising crack before pulling up and into a large flake to finish.
    Ross I Jones, Al Sanders. 7 Jun 2014.

    Qui Ness
    HU 294 661 Mainly East Facing Partly Tidal

    Various 8-12m lines from Severe to HVS have been climbed here on 7 Jun 2014 by Al Whitworth, Aurore Whitworth, Andrew Hunter, Pete Sawford, Stu Barton, Robina Barton.

    Strom Ness, North Wall
    HU 292 658 North Facing Non Tidal

    A small section of wall of perfect blackened red granite with three enjoyable routes. The wall can be viewed from a small headland opposite. Access by abseil. Routes are left to right.

    Serenity E1 5b ** 15m
    Belay in the corner and traverse out right to the bottom of the left crack. Climb the thin crack and small edges.
    Ross I Jones, Matt Dent. 20 Jun 2014.

    Scorpion Rising HVS 5a 15m
    Nice climbing with a sting at the top. Belay at the bottom of the larger crack and climb this.
    Matt Dent, Ross I Jones. 20 Jun 2014.

    Taking In Air HVS 5a 15m
    From the same belay climb the right slanting left facing corner and wall above.
    Ross I Jones, Matt Dent. 20 Jun 2014.

    Strom Ness, South Walls
    HU 292 655 North Facing Non Tidal

    The walls on the south side of Strom Ness consist of mainly poor rock. A route on the best looking corner has been climbed however the rock was found to be friable. Approach by abseil.

    Rock Buffet E1 5b 30m
    From 3m left of the corner climb a steep crack to slightly easier more broken ground. Pull up through poor rock into the left slanting right facing corner above and layback up the large flaked corner. Despite looks, the rock isn’t great. Go feast elsewhere.
    Matt Dent, Ross I Jones. 20 Jun 2014.

    AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #11643 |

    Mike and I went into Muckle Roe last Monday and climbed the large 50m wall in the Big Geo of Stromness. It has taken three visits to finally climb the line. The first time Matt and I were rained off last year as we abbed in. Mark and I then climbed No Time For Timidity that covers the same fine ground at the top and it rained during this ascent. On Monday Mike and I geared up whilst watching Eshaness to the north and Vementry to the south receive a soaking in the rain, before the day cleared up. Fortunately it missed us.

    The route is called The Mariner and is one of the best at the grade that I’ve climbed in Shetland. It is mainly E2 5b climbing with a single tricky 5c move a couple of metres above gear, followed by a couple of 5b moves (still above gear). As a route at E3 it isn’t overly strenuous. It just has quite a few technical sections throughout the wall.

    *******

    Big Geo of Stromness, East Wall
    HU 292 654 East Facing Non Tidal

    A fine 50m wall of granite overlooking the geo. The rock on the left side of the wall in the lower half is loose and rotten, whilst on the right side provides some exposed and steep climbing on good rock. Both routes share the same ground in the top half. Approach by abseil and belay on a plinth of poor rock 5m above the sea ledges at the bottom of the wall.

    The Mariner E3 5c *** 45m
    Belay on the right side of the ledge. Climb up to a small left facing niche and pull up on to a narrow right slanting break. Climb this and cracks above to the arete. Climb up on the left for 2m and make an exposed move out to flakes on the arete (crux). Layback up flakes on the arete and onto a sloping ledge. Climb steep cracks up the wall and through overlapping flakes and steep cracks to a capping roof 5m below the top of the wall. Traverse left for 3m and climb a left slanting crack and then vertical cracks to finish.
    Ross I Jones, Mike Soldner. 8 Jun 2015.

    No Time For Timidity E2 5b 45m
    Climb the broken and rotten crack to the right of a flake line. This becomes more solid after 10m. Continue up steep cracks right of the flakes, climbing up and rightwards to make tricky traverse over to right arete under a capping overlap of flakes to join The Mariner.
    Ross I Jones, Mark Kauntze. 2 Jul 2014.

    AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #11653 |

    Topo for the Big Geo.

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    AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #12556 |

    I’ve updated the section for North Ham below:

    North Ham
    HU301 661 East Facing Non-tidal
    The small spit of land immediately west of Fiska Ness has an obvious stepped corner on the northerly tip on the east face.

    Ham Corner VDiff 25m
    The stepped corner on the east face.
    Pete Sawford, Julie Maguire, Stu Barton. 7 Jun 2014.


    Missing Gwyd
    HS 4b 25m
    Belay at the bottom of Ham Corner and climb directly up cracks to the arete. Step left and climb the wall just left of the arete. Nice position, but poor rock.
    Ross I Jones, Peter Arthur, Gwydion Saxelby. 11 Jun 2016.

    The next two routes are on the west side of the tip of rock

    West Corner VS 4c 20m *
    Climb the corner crack.
    Pete Kyall, Pete Sawford. Summer 2015.

    Besaid E1 5b 10m *
    Climb the steep crack to the right of the corner and groove above this.
    Gwydion Saxelby, Peter Arthur, Ross I Jones. 11 Jun 2016.

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