North Head

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  • Ross
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #9315 |

    North Head is proving to be quite a venue. The latest draft description is below:

    NORTH HEAD

    This is the headland west of the Geo of Ockran.

    The Slot
    (HU 239 839) Partly-tidal North-West facing
    A large slot in the cliffs about 100 north of the cairn of large rocks and to the west of the Hole of Geuda. The NE side of the slot is capped by an overhanging wall and the fine SW corner has a large prominent crack – “The Big Issue”. Routes are described from right to left as you face the cliff.

    This Timeless Moment 50m E2 5b ***
    To the right of the large slot is a corner capped with an overhang at a third height and overhangs at the very top of the wall. Climb the corner for 10m and traverse left above an overhang to a steep crack/groove in the centre of the wall. Climb this to a ledge and up to overhangs. Climb up through the first overhang into a steep crack to the left of the hanging arete. Climb the hanging cracks/breaks to pull out left on to an overhang and traverse left under the final overhang to finish.
    Ross I Jones, Matt Dent. 22 Jun 2014.

    The Big Issue 40m E1 5b **
    From ledges at 4m climb the large corner and wall to the left. Follow a groove at 8m before moving back into the corner where it steepens until an overhang blocks progress. Make a large step right to pull on to the hanging flake of an off-width crack (Camelot 5 or 6 for pro). Climb this and the wall above to finish.
    Ross I Jones, Andrew Hunter. 14 Jun 2014.

    Unnamed 40m HVS 5a (Good route – quality TBC)
    From ledges at 4m climb cracks in the wall to the right of corner on the left to the roof. Traverse left into the bottom of the hanging corner and climb this to the top.
    Adam Wainwright, Paul Whitworth, Andrew Hunter. 2011.

    Unnamed 40m HVS 5a **
    From ledges at 4m climb the steep pocketed rib to the left of the corner past a roof to a second roof. Traverse rightwards and climb wall up past the roof to a fine crack system on the left that splits the wall above. Climb this to the top.
    Andrew Hunter, Ross I Jones. 14 Jun 2014.

    West Wall
    (HU 239 839) Tidal, West facing
    The fine wall 50m to the north of the slot and just west of the Hole of Geuda.

    Perception Overload
    35m E1 5b
    Climb the straightforward right slanting groove on the right side of the wall to a small overhang. Pull out right onto wall above and climb up and right into a corner below a roof. Traverse left and pull around the roof to finish up easier ground.
    Ross I Jones, Matt Dent. 22 Jun 2014.

    Halcyon Days 35m VS 4b *
    Climb the steep bulge in the centre of the wall and the arete/wall to the right of the left facing groove above to finish up broken grooves/flakes at the top.
    Matt Dent, Ross I Jones. 22 Jun 2014.

    North Wall
    (HU 240 839) Non-tidal North facing
    A fine corner of black rock can be seen on the most northerly point of North Head from the cliffs north of the Geo of Ockran. The corner is
    100 north of the cairn of large rocks and to the east of the Hole of Geuda. Access by abseil to a ledge below the corner 8m above the sea.

    Ockran Corner 30m VS 4c ***
    The corner-crack on excellent rock.
    Paul Whitworth, Ross I Jones. 16 Aug 2008.

    Da Laverek 30m E1 5b **
    From the corner belay traverse out left and up the centre of the wall to a small shelf below an overhang. Pull out rightwards onto the wall above and climb this direct to the top.
    Ross I Jones, Paul Whitworth. 16 Aug 2008.

    Ross
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #9401 |

    Great day out at North Head today.

    Two more new lines, one further right of This Timeless Moment by Ross and Mark at E1 and the central crack up the centre of the slot by Mark and Ross at E1, though suffers seepage.

    Five routes between VS and E1 were added on the West Wall by Liam, Andrew, Callum, Peter, Ross and Mark.

    I’ll write them up in due course.

    This Timeless Moment was repeated and maybe E2 5b rather than 5c, but the jury didn’t seem to come down either way. The two unnamed HVS routes were also repeated and both worth 2 stars. These still need names Andrew …….

    Billy came in close in his boat and took quite a few shots at the hordes climbing on the West Wall!!!!

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #9402 |

    good stuff. glad you had a good day.

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