Round Point, Bressay

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  • AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #9418 |

    We headed to Round Point today to complete some unfinished business.

    Sid and I climbed there in 2008 and found an awesome hanging wall with a perfect open book corner at the bottom. However the bottom corner got the better of us on the day so we found a different line on to the wall below steep hanging crack lines. We sneaked up the side of these only to be stopped by the capping roof by some loose looking blocks and had to head rightwards to finish. We recorded the route at the as Right of the Main Issue.

    Today we cleared the loose blocks on the roof on abseil and tackled the Main Issue. Mark climbed the perfect first pitch at 6a and the second up the hanging cracks at 5b, leaving me with the roof, a full pull out into space at 5b. Having climbed it we thought the top large flake above the initial pull through was precarious so it has now been removed. I’m not sure what this will do to the grade.

    A fine route with three very different pitches and worth the trek out there for that route alone, although the rest of the climbing that has been done is nothing special. It would be worth checking the final pull through again prior to another ascent. There is still a steeper and even more direct line to the left of our line up the hanging wall to go for the brave ….

    ********

    Round Point
    (HU518373) Mainly Non-tidal South and East Facing

    This is one of the headlands to the east of the Sand Vatn Loch. The prominent corner line of Shetland Girls can be seen from the headland of Hamar. Right of the corner is a fine hanging wall with a perfect open corner at the bottom that leads to a ledge at 10m below excellent looking hanging cracklines. To the north of the Round Point is an 80m section of cliff which decreases in height with a right slanting crack/groove line in the northerly most corner.

    Access: Abseil from ledges down the northerly most corner and traverse along ledges. Alternatively abseil from stakes (not in situ) or number 5 and 6 camelots can be used in breaks above Nyuggel.

    Shetland Girls Are Dreamy 40m E1 5b
    Climb the steep wall just right of the corner through a small break and up a thin crack to a ledge to the right at 6m. Climb the fine slanting corner crack above to finish on more broken rock at the top. The section above the ledge is HS. Climbing the right hand crack under the ledge at the start may decrease the overall route grade.
    David (Sid) Rayner, Ross I Jones. 21 Aug 2008.

    Right of the corner is an arete to a hanging east facing wall. Right of the arete is a perfect open corner beneath a ledge.

    The Cosmographist
    45m E3 ***
    1. 10m 6a Climb the slightly overhanging perfect corner to a large ledge..
    2. 20m 5b From the ledge climb the hanging cracks above a right slanting corner to pull on to a ledge with broken boulders. Climb on to the ledge above.
    3. 15m 5b Make an awkward pull up leftwards onto another ledge and then climb cracks to the capping roof. Pull out on to the hanging flake and climb this and the ground above to finish (A second large hanging flake was removed after the first ascent so the grade may have changed).
    Mark Kauntze, Ross I Jones. 3 Jul 2014.

    Right of corner is a 12m east facing wall split by a groove that leads to the ledge. The capping roof on the final pitch was avoided during the first ascent due to lose blocks.

    Right of the Main Issue
    50m E2
    1. 15m 5a Climb the hanging groove to the ledge.
    2. 35m 5b Climb the large right slanting corner to a ledge and the hanging wall above to another ledge with a large block. Make an awkward pull up onto another ledge and then climb cracks to the capping roof of overhangs. Traverse 5m rightwards under the overhangs and finish up the corner.
    Ross I Jones, David (Sid) Rayner. 21 Aug 2008.

    15-20m right of the hanging wall is a left slanting corner crack beneath a large v-groove at the top of the cliff.

    Nyuggel 30m HVS 5b
    Start from the top of ledges at 10m, beneath an overhang and just right of the corner crack. Make difficult but protected moves to pull up to the crack. Climb this to the large stepped groove and traverse out right to a mantleshelf and finish up the arete to avoid loose rock in the corner.
    David (Sid) Rayner, Ross I Jones. 22 Aug 2008.

    Unnamed 30m E2 5c
    Start 10m right of Nyuggel and right of a small corner with a capping roof. Make an awkward start up a small groove and up to two small twin corners to the left of the wall. Pull around onto the wall and from a small hand ledge above the wall, pull up on a small crimp on the right to easier ground. Climb a corner and cracks direct to finish. Belay on stakes.
    Mark Kauntze, Ross I Jones. 3 Jul 2014.

    Nyiff 25m E1 5b *
    Takes the right slanting crack/groove line in the northerly most corner. Awkward moves to get established, then a serious of easier v grooves and crackline above.
    Ross I Jones, David (Sid) Rayner. 22 Aug 2008.

    AvatarAl
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #9422 |

    Well done, sounds like a good line.

    AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #9454 |

    The unnamed E2 climbed by Mark to the right of Nyuggel has been called The Goblin Queen.

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