South Gill

Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 21 total)
  • Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #4289 |

    Just had another great evening at the South Gill. I was saying to Paul the other day – I’ve forgotten how good it was there for a day/evening in the sun. I’d also assumed most of the lines had been climbed, which definitely isn’t true – plenty still to go at.

    At the Voar Reddup weekend Andrew added a new line, maybe you could write it up Andrew? It was apparently very good – perhaps the best there.

    Last week Andrew and I headed back and climbed the bold and hard wall and roof left of Black Box, but avoiding the hardest part bringing the grade down to HVS 5a. Great fun moving through the roof, and not too bad once you commit to it. Need a name though Andrew?

    Tonight I climbed 2 new lines. Climbed on a shunt so they’re still awaiting their first proper ascent, which I’ll do soon hopefully.

    Pillage. HS 4b **. 15m. Start as for Plunder but climb the wall direct. (Almost as good as Plunder!)

    Red Snapper. HVS 4c. 15m. Climb the roof to the right of Pillage, traversing in from the left and then the arete above. Suspect gear for the first half.

    Andrew’s route from last Saturday is immediately right of Red Snapper.

    Andrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #5177 |

    Ya, it’s an alright peerie crag. I’m not a huge fan of the rock, but it’s nice enough.

    I don’t think my route from the AGM was actually a new line, Paul has climbed it before. Very nice route though. I was going to get the route next to BB written up this week, just got to find out what the route to the left that you climbed on the AGM weekend is called? Oh, and look through my route name list! 😛

    Are you sure Red Snapper would only be HVS on lead? Maybe it’s a different route to the one I’m thinking of..
    Also, better get them lead quick or someone might pinch em!! 😛

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #5178 |

    I can’t say I’d be that bothered! I only didn’t lead them yesterday as no belay bunny turned up! I think it is only 4c – far easier than it looks, but the gear is the issue, you wouldn’t want to fall on it.

    I don’t think the VS I did has been written up as far as I can tell. Need to sit down with Paul and sort the topo out.

    Andrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #5179 |

    Haha, I know, I was just winding you up! 😛

    Would have come up but had a meeting at 5 so by the time that was done it was too late. Tried to call, but couldn’t get you. Went to Watsness instead for some lonely bouldering, found a brilliant new problem that’ll go around V8-9ish but a bit dodgy to properly work the moves without a spotter!

    Ah, was gonna write mine up with ‘Start as for…’

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #5180 |

    http://www.climbshetland.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/South-Gill-Black-Box-Area.jpg

    1. ??? VS 4b
    2. [Andrew’s Route] HVS 5a
    3. [Paul’s Route] E3 6a?
    4. Black Box E2 5c *

    http://www.climbshetland.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/South-Gill-Plunder-Area.jpg

    1. Plunder Severe 4b **
    2. Pillage HS 4c *
    3. Red Snapper HVS 4c. (Might actually be existing route Sandblast HVS 5a? Not sure.)
    4. Pinkersand HVS 4c
    5. Jagged Edge VS 4c (Think that’s right!)
    6. Cross Bow VS 4c or Bow Crack Indirect VS 4b if you follow the crack right.
    7. Unclimbed.
    8. Steps VDiff.
    9. Step n Wall. Severe. As for Steps but carry on up wall.

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #5233 |

    Had a cracker of an evening last night at the South Gill again. Did a few usual suspects on the upper tier and then headed down to the pocketed wall that I’ve been looking at for a while.

    I basically picked a line of least resistance up the middle following any pockets that might take gear! Brilliant route – slightly technical and delicate at the bottom with only just enough gear.

    Pinkpocket HVS 4c ** 30m
    Starting just to the right of the pool climb the pocketed wall, moving rightwards around the roof.
    Al Whitworth, Stu Barton, Mhairi Gervais, Andy Long 18 May 2012

    There is potential for 2 or 3 other lines on the wall. They’re fairly steep and thin at the bottom and ease off at half height but superb climbing all the way. Andy started off on one but think it got a bit thin so decided against it.

    http://www.climbshetland.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/shetland-climbing-general-photos/p1020652.jpg

    Anonymous
    Inactive
    Post count: 4
    #5241 |

    It was a lovely route, and credit to the photographer for freezing herself to get the great pics. For the record my surname is Gervais. Thanks again for the climb….if you’re ever looking for a couch or a belay around glasgow then give me a call.

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #5293 |

    Another 2 routes to add to the wall last night…

    Suntoucher VS 4c * 30m
    From a small ledge next to the geo, climb the wall next to the arete, through the roof and the slab above.
    Al Whitworth, Andrew Hunter, Aurore Mercier 26/05/12

    Reflection HVS 5a * 30m
    Climb the crack to the right of the niche, through the roof and wall above.
    Andrew Hunter, Aurore Mercier, Al Whitworth 26/05/12

    Pinkpocket was confirmed at HVS 4c too, mainly cos of poor gear.

    Andrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #5294 |

    Al, just edited your post to include the name.

    Not sure about only one star though.. it was at least as good as Pinkpocket! 😛

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #5295 |

    Give it 2 then – your route!! Yeah probably was as good as Pinkpocket…

    Andrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #5299 |

    My route on the upper tier; will have to fill in the name of the VS once we know what it’s called!:

    Cognitive Dissonance HVS 5a 8m
    Start as for [???? (the VS)] to the break, traverse 2m right to under the roof, finish through this and the slab above.
    Andrew Hunter, Al Whitworth

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #5300 |

    Where’s that name come from?!

    Andrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #5301 |

    Just random really!
    Cognitive dissonance is when someone has two ‘cognitions’ (ideas/experiences/etc) that contradict each other. I.e. a drug addict both hates and loves drugs at the same time.

    …Actually, I should have saved the name for one of those “what on earth am I doing here, I hate climbing!!” routes that you suddenly love when you top out…

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #5302 |

    just random cos it was bill baileys opening joke at his Clickimin gig last week was about cognitive dissonance. Guessing you weren’t there?!

    Andrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #5303 |

    Haha, that’s very random! Nope, wasn’t there.

    longa
    Participant
    Post count: 472
    #5320 |

    “Reflection” appears to be the line I attempted the night of “Pinkpocket”. Thanks a lot guys.

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #5322 |

    Don’t think so Andy… I didn’t see you attempt it but my understanding was that your line is number 3 on this topo: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/6079735/South%20Gill%20Pinkpocket%20Wall.jpg

    Reflection is number 4. Apologies if I got this wrong. 1 is still to go too.

    longa
    Participant
    Post count: 472
    #5323 |

    No.4 is the line. Started up the crack. I got to just below the roof and new it would go with a bit more time… Never mind.

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #5324 |

    Ah sorry Andy, my mistake – didn’t think you were that far over. The move through the roof was pretty tricky, definitely 5a.

    Andrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #5325 |

    Sorry Andy, wouldn’t have got on it if I’d known it was your line.

Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 21 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.