Lovely day at Culswick. Pete Kayle, me, Mhairig & her mate Sue. Four rather nondescript new routes. Pete & Mhairig repeated the big line left of the buttress.
Nice one. Are you going to bother writing them up or not worth it? Saw you on the way back but wasn’t sure where you’d climbed. Me and Aurore did Perfect Groove at the Lighthouse. Was completely out of the wind – such a good route!
“Dearie-time Buttress”, Diff/V.diff-ish starts at the bottom R corner of the striking concave slab at the R end of the crag. Goes straight up to the overlap, L then step R onto the upper slab. Straight up to finish. Actually, it’s not that nondescript, merely easy. FA Andy Long, Susan Dearie.
Pete & Mhairig started at the same place but went up and left to finish up a little steep rib at about VS/HVS (just one move for Pete, two for Mhairig…).
The obvious slanting line across the top of this slab was done by me last year with the Learmonths, Dad & Daughter. It’s about Diff.
About 15m right of the top of this route is an attractive slab/ramp on the upper tier. It’s nice enough, but only Mod.
Pete & Mhairig did a new line way across to the right up a black wall which they described as “Severe – no pro”.
I believe all these lines to be new but wouldn’t be surprised if some had been solo’ed before.
On the “popular” wall above the platform, Pete & Mhairig did the “HVS” crack on the left and the “VS” left-slanting crack in the middle, confirming the latter to be harder, no surprise to me.
Me & Sue did the central crack which emerges from the latter. Steady VS, committing; and the groove immediately R of that, steady VS. Both good routes.
Pete reckoned the “big line” up the left-bounding corner of the great overhang to be E2, poss E3.
Nice one, thanks very much. Don’t think Paul&co had done those routes to the right yet but had certainly planned to at some point. Paul has his eyes on the roof itself which doesn’t look very possible to me. Well, not unless you’re climbing E7!
