Tingon New Routes – Castle Buttress and Welcome Home Area

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  • AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #11715 |

    Write up the routes added by Gwyd and I the other weekend. I’ve included all of the routes on Castle Buttress for context:

    Castle Buttress

    There is now a 100m or so gap in the recorded routes. There are routes still to be climbed in this section. Just before Scar Wall is a prominent 40m buttress, it’s top resembling a castle’s tower.

    Yeats Sev 4a * 20m
    From a ledge 10m above the sea step left and climb the left side of the wall just right of the arete.
    Gwydion Saxelby, Ross I Jones. 30 May 2015.

    Prominent Crack Sev 4a 20m
    From the same ledge climb a shallow right facing corner crack up a corner just right of an overhang. Climb the steep crack/wall (crux) to finish.
    Ross I Jones, Gwydion Saxelby. 30 May 2015.

    A Far Off Tale VS 4c 20m
    From the same ledge climb the thin crack on the right up the wall to climb back right into the corner right of the overhang. Pull out right onto the final steep wall and climb this (crux) to finish.
    Ross I Jones, Gwydion Saxelby. 30 May 2015.

    Past Times HVS 5a 30m
    From the platform at the base of the pillar climb straight up the centre of the wall, over some ledges, to finish up the overhanging headwall.
    Andrew Hunter, Paul Whitworth. 8 May 2010.

    Grit Flit Sev 4a 30m
    From the platform head up the stepped ledges trending right to finish round the arete on a large sunken shelf.
    Paul Whitworth, Andrew Hunter. 8 May 2010.

    ***
    Welcome Home Area

    The line climbs the wall between 100 Years of Solitude and Follow Your Nose (2A on the topo)

    Controlled Existentialism E2 5b * 35m
    From the lower ledge climb up thin breaks and the wall above to a break in the overhang. Pull through this on small holds and wall above to finish.
    Ross I Jones, Gwydion Saxelby. 30 May 2015.

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    AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #11717 |

    Amended Topo for Welcome Home Area

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    AvatarAl
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #11720 |

    Nice one, cheers.

    AndrewAndrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #11722 |

    Jolly good show! Glad Welcome Home got a repeat too, cracking route.

    AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #11725 |

    And Welcome Home deserves a fair few more repeats Andrew for such a great route.

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