Warie Gill

Viewing 16 posts - 1 through 16 (of 16 total)
  • Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #9722 |

    I’ve been having a look at the Warie Gill routes recently and trying to decifer them. Went for a walk out there earlier and still none the wiser. Does anyone have photos of the routes, or even better, fancy doing a topo for me?

    πŸ™‚ http://shetlandclimbing.info/?trad-crag=tingon

    longa
    Participant
    Post count: 472
    #9724 |

    I’ve always been a bit mystified too, so can’t help you. I may have a route there which I’ve never recorded as well. It might be an idea simply to do a topo regardless, with the rider that any corrections would be welcome. I could go out and do that if you like, simply draw the lines, number them, and invite descriptions.

    Andrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #9729 |

    We must’ve spent at least half an hour staring at the crag from both sides trying to figure it out. You were our only other hope, Andy! πŸ˜‰
    The only logical thing I could think of was that the descriptions had got jumbled up; we thought we’d identified a couple of the lines but then the descriptions of the adjacent routes didn’t work.

    longa
    Participant
    Post count: 472
    #9731 |

    Then we’ll just make it up!

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #9732 |

    Here are a few photos to help. Not that they helped us!

    South of Warie Gill 1:

    South of Warie Gill 2:

    West of Tingon burn and arch:

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #9754 |

    Thinking of heading out there tomorrow. Anyone else fancy a climb?

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #9755 |

    Off to the Warie Gill now if anyone sees this late just to figure stuff out and self belay. Then probably off to Raasmi and the Grind this afternoon to get crag shots and maybe a climb.

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #9756 |

    Ok, just talking to myself now obviously πŸ˜‰ had a good day out today. Found all the routes and I think what had confused me was that the most obvious lines weren’t the ones recorded! Anyway, I climbed three obvious unlisted routes. I have named and listed them as I’m sure they will have been climbed before (feel free to claim!). I also found Andy’s routes ‘200m to the south of the Warie Gill’. Pleased that they aren’t the same routes as Ross and Stu’s Blackpocket Wall from May, but they are just across the other side of the unclimbable arch geo from this, so actually give complete continuation of routes now from the South Gill right to the Warie Gill!

    And note to self: when self-belaying it is useful to remember your shunt – left it at the top on the 2nd route so had to climb with a tibloc and backup knots! (fall on toothed tibloc on dynamic rope = not clever)

    1 Jet (HS); 2 Bosse-Cat (HS); 3 Grot-ville (VD); 4 Wall of Sound (E1 5a); 5 Lost Volcano (VS 4b); 6 Orange Utang (HS); 7 Purple Haze (VS 4b); 8 Rock Lobster (VD).

    3 ‘new’ routes were:

    9. Nip Up Sev 4a 15m
    Climb the shallow cracks to ledges, then the crack above.
    Pete Sawford, Paul Whitworth. 2009

    10. Warrior Groove Sev 4a *** 15m
    Climb the excellent corner crack
    Pete Sawford, Paul Whitworth. 2009

    11. Shuntless VS 4b 15m
    The short corner and crack above on the arΓͺte, finishing up the groove.
    FA unknown. Al Whitworth (self belay) 31/08/2014

    longa
    Participant
    Post count: 472
    #9759 |

    I went there on Tuesday with Gwydion. Pretty much identified the routes as you’ve got them. We did 1, 9 & 10. Route 1, “Jet”, I thought was quite good.

    It means that there’s no name or claimant for the big scary V.Diff left of route 3. Also missing from the topo is my route up the groove at the extreme R edge of the photo:

    “Alison Corner”, 15m Severe.

    Traverse horizontally right from the right end of the platform below 2 Sided, to the foot of the obvious corner. Best to belay here before climbing the corner.
    FA Andy Long, Alison ? (Carlos’s G/F) 2010.

    Andrew
    Keymaster
    Post count: 412
    #9760 |

    Well done, Sherlock! πŸ˜‰

    Doesn’t look like the routes out right have been climbed and/or recorded then. Always thought that was an old route I climbed a few years ago.

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #9761 |

    Great Andy, thanks. Hadn’t realised you’d been there. You could have saved me being midged today! I don’t quite understand why Wilson did 3- Grot Ville when the route to the left looked much better. Saying that, both look awful in my book! I’ve updated the topo.

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #9762 |

    Mr Sawford has 2 routes in his UKC logbook at Warie Gill. They’re “Nip-Up HS” and “Warrior Groove ** Sev”. I have a feeling these maybe 10 and 9 respectively, so I’ve renamed them in my post above and on SCi although lowered the grade of them both to Severe. I’ve then changed “2-sided” to “Shuntless”. Should be done now, although possibly my 3rd route today might not have had an ascent?

    longa
    Participant
    Post count: 472
    #9765 |

    The reason I hadn’t posted was that I was still marking up my pics. They’re not as good as your offshore ones though, so I’ll not bother now.

    pete s
    Participant
    Post count: 355
    #9766 |

    yes neare enough on the grade got a photo of me on 10 somewhere did the big v dif a week of 2cafter altho im sure andy had done it years ago as such an obvious line

    Al
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #9767 |

    Care to give me a name for the big vdiff Pete? Yeah I took loads of pics too but the one from the boat was by far the easiest to work out and works when you’re at the crag as well so I’ll stick with it. Thanks for the help though.

    longa
    Participant
    Post count: 472
    #9770 |

    No, by the time I did the V.Diff it already seemed to be a trade route for you guys.

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