West Wall, Ness of Sound

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  • AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #6944 |

    Andy and I headed down to the Ness of Sound for a couple of hours yesterday afternoon and climbed on the West Wall. I don’t think this has had any activity to date. The top looks a bit scrappy and when I had a look back in December it didn’t look that inviting in the wet. Well with a North-Easterly varying South-Easterly blowing this seemed the best option with the cool wind and the sun came out as we were setting up the abseil..

    Well we were both pretty surprised. The wall is excellent gritty sandstone, although the crux on our route was pretty serious. The line we climbed was excellent. No far off a classic 3 star route. Still a few more routes to go. Anyone up for joining me?

    West Wall
    On the West side of the Ness of Sound is a 25m black West facing wall (HU468386) to the South East of a small headland called Launching Croo. The top 7m of the wall is capped by broken rock terraces. The wall provides some fine if bold climbing. Access by abseil from an outcrop set back from the cliff edge or stakes to the non-tidal section of the beach.

    The Empiricist 35m E2 5b**
    From the bottom left side of the wall climb the rising flake line to where it terminates. Lace this with gear and the climb up and slightly rightwards through an unprotected bulge to a horizontal break and then direct up the wall to finish.
    Ross I Jones, Andy Long. 30 Apr 2014.

    AvatarAl
    Keymaster
    Post count: 860
    #7999 |

    Sounds good. Mind if I post this up on SCi?

    AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #8046 |

    Feel free. The route description is already added to the database.

    AvatarRoss
    Participant
    Post count: 165
    #9487 |

    Andrew and I managed to squeeze in another route on the left side of the West Wall yesterday evening before the weather turned. This was despite a punctured tire suffered by Andrew on the way from work, increasing wind and the gathering rain clouds and an attack of Raynauds in my fingers that kicked in just before the crux section and remained for the rest of the route. Still an enjoyable outing as ever.

    I’ve updated the database.

    ****

    Ataraxian Highway 35m E2 5b
    An enjoyable route for those with a bold disposition. Gear is spaced. Start just left of the flake line for The Empiricist and climb up and rightwards to a flake line that comes in from the left at 10m. Climb up rightwards (crux) to a break and then the steep next section with a couple of good but small pockets to another break. Continue up the wall and through the capping breaks to finish.
    Ross I Jones, Andrew Hunter. 14 Jul 2014.

    The Empiricist 35m E2 5b **
    From the bottom left side of the wall climb the rising flake line to where it terminates. Lace this with gear and the climb up and slightly rightwards through an unprotected bulge to a horizontal break and then direct up the wall to finish.
    Ross I Jones, Andy Long. 30 Apr 2014.

    Unnamed 35m E1 5a **
    Start 6m right of The Empiricist. Climb up to a small niche below small corner niche and roof to the right. Continue to the roof and pull up onto this by the right. Continue up and slightly right after the horizontal break and then direct up the final wall to finish left of the capping overhang.
    Andrew Hunter, Ross I Jones. 16 Jun 2014.

    Ever The Rationalist 35m VS 4b *
    Start 8m right of The Empiricist and climb rightwards rising cracks up the slightly convex section of wall to the top.
    Ross I Jones, Andy Long. 8 May 2014.

    The Logical Positivist 40m HS 4a *
    Belay on a fin of rock. Step on to the wall beneath a small overlap. Climb up and slightly right to a shallow scope and traverse right and upwards to a crack. Climb this and cracks above.
    Andy Long, Ross I Jones. 8 May 2014.

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